2.11.2015, 34 kommenttia

Kielo Sleeve & Layered PDF Tutorial

Here’s a brief tutorial for using the free Kielo sleeve pattern, from printing and putting together the pattern to finishing the sleeve! We are testing a new kind of pattern layout, a layered pattern, where all patterns and both languages are on the same file, and you can choose to print your patterns in the correct language and in the desired size. Here’s how to work with the layered pattern:

  • First, open the pattern file in Adobe Acrobat Pro or Arobe Reader. If you don’t have one of these softwares, you can download the Reader for free from here.
  • We used Acrobat Pro and a Mac, but the file will open in a similar window whether you use the Reader or Acrobat, Mac or PC. When you open the file, it will look like a mess, because both languages and all sizes are on top of each other. To see only your own size and language, click on the ’layers’ symbol on the left side bar (see image).

Layered_Pattern1

  • You will see a list of all layers included in the file, in the menu on the left. When a layer is visible, a small eye symbol will appear next to it. To close a layer, simply click on the eye symbol, and the layer will be deactivated and it will disappear.

Layered_Pattern2

  • Now, choose only the language and size(s) you want to print, and make sure the eye symbol is visible next to those layers, and all other layers are turned off. ’English’, naturally, means the English texts, and ’Suomi’ means Finnish. For example here, I have chosen to print the sizes 38 and 40 in English – see the eye symbols next to those layers.

Layered_Pattern3

  • Once you have chosen the right layers, click ’File -> Print’. This way only the visible layers will be printed.
  • At the print preview, make sure to choose the ’Actual size’, so the pattern will be printed in the correct scale. After this, just print the pattern and continue normally by taping and glueing the sheets together!

Layered_Pattern4

Once you have completed the sheet, cut or trace the sleeve off from it. Trace also the Kielo Dress patterns completely from their own sheet and with the original armholes, but don’t cut them out yet (in the image the original Kielo armhole is drawn with blue marker). Place the traced Kielo patterns on top of the armholes in the sleeve pattern sheet. Make sure that the shoulder and side seams of the two patterns are on top of each other and that the bust darts match.

tracing1Tracing2

Attach with weights and make sure the patterns stay still and don’t shift. Copy the new armhole shape to the original Kielo pattern – if you want, you can use a different color to tell the two armholes apart (in the image the new armhole is drawn with red). If you have a printed pattern, make sure to align the armhole with the stitching lines of the new armhole (the inner lines).

tracing3

Remember to also copy the seam allowances and all notches to your Kielo pattern! Then just cut the patterns off and cut your fabric normally.

You can follow the regular Kielo instructions for making the dress, but with these exceptions:

  • Use a knit fabric with approximately 50% stretch. You can sew all plain seams with a serger. Remember to also use stretch stitch on your sewing machine.
  • After you have sewn the bust darts, contour darts and CB seam with the vent, sew the shoulder seams. Sew a strip of clear elastic to the shoulder seam to prevent it from stretching out of shape.
  • Sew the sleeve to the armhole, matching notches. Note that the sleeve will be placed between the two little ’corners’ where the armhole ends and the side seam starts. These are indicated by notches (and Saara’s fingers in this image).

Kielo1

  •  Sew the sleeve on, easing in the sleeve cap a bit, and press the seam allowances towards the dress.

Kielo2

  • Fold the sleeve right sides together and pin the sleeve seam, and the side seam until the ’corner’ in the side seam and sew.

Kielo3Kielo4

  • Fold the 2 cm hem allowance to the wrong side at the sleeve opening, press, pin and stitch using stretch stitch.
  • Continue by following the Kielo instructions – make the belt, pin it to the side seam and sew the side seam from the ’corner’ down to the hem. Finish the bottom edge and the neckline and voilá!

Kielo5

Now, we would love to hear some feedback from you regarding the layered pattern and the whole concept of having a free add-on to a pattern. Did you find these easy to work with, and what could we improve? All feedback will be very helpful! <3 Remember that the Kielo discount is still valid today (and only today)! By using this code at the checkout, you’ll get 15% off of the original price of the Kielo Dress, printed or pdf (the sleeve works for both of them):

KIELOWRAPDRESS

Happy sewing!
Laura & Saara

*******

Patterns: Kielo Wrap Dress & Kielo Wrap Dress Sleeve

Fabric: Nosh Organics

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Kommentit

  1. Vilma kirjoitti:

    Moikka! Ihana kaava – niin ihana, että ostin sen heti ensisilmäyksen jälkeen. Minulla on kutina, että tästä tulee erittäin pidetty mekko.

    Aion tehdä mekon trikoosta ja polvipituisena, ehkä hieman polven yläpuolelle ulottuvana. Tuleeko minun ottaa jotain erityistä huomioon, kun en teekään mekkoa täsmälleen kaavan mukaan? Voinko vain pätkäistä helman poikki siitä kohtaa, kun haluan? Polvipituiseen mekkoon tuskin tarvitsee halkiota – vai tarvitseeko? Olen ommellut aktiivisesti vasta vuoden verran, joten ihan haka en vielä näissä asioissa ole.

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Ihana kuulla! Toivottavasti siitä tulee ihan lempivaate <3

  2. Kat kirjoitti:

    Hello! I think the images in the post are broken.. At least they’re not displaying for me. I’m really excited about making a kielo with sleeves so hope you can fix them soon. Thank you! Kat

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Hi Kat! The images seem to work all right in my screen :( What browser are you using? Does it help if you try with a different browser, or refresh? – Laura

  3. shannon kirjoitti:

    brilliant! and love the add ons!

  4. LyndaP kirjoitti:

    Absolutely love this pattern and now can’t wait to make a winter version. I wore a long version of this to a wedding at the weekend and have never had so many compliments on a dress and felt fantastic wearing it. An extremely versatile pattern thanks so much :)

    1. named kirjoitti:

      That is so lovely to hear! Thanks for your sweet comments :)

  5. Anna kirjoitti:

    Ooh this is great! Will your current patterns be available as a layered pdf in the future?

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Hi Anna! Unfortunately not :( All pdf’s made from now on (starting from SS16) will be layered patterns, but the old ones will stay the way they are, at least for now… We’ll have to see if there’s time to re-do some of the most popular items at some point though :) – Laura

  6. Shauni S kirjoitti:

    Hi Laura and Saara!

    I just wanted to say thank you SO MUCH for releasing a sleeve pattern for the Kielo :) The Kielo is one of my favourite patterns, and I was just getting ready to have a go at drafting my own sleeve pattern, but luckily, yours came out first – I’m not sure how good my drafting attempts would have been. The layered pattern is brilliant – hopefully more PDF patterns will be available in this format in future.

    I blogged about my sleeved version here in case you’d like to see it: http://magnificent-thread.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/kielo-wrap-dress-with-sleeves.html It’s currently my most-worn item :)

    x

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Hi Shauni, that sounds awesome, and your dress looks really gorgeous! We’re also glad that you’ve found the layered pattern easy to use – we are quite excited about it as well, so there will probably be more patterns like this in the future! :)

  7. Hayley kirjoitti:

    I have just finished a jersey version of the dress with sleeves which I printed off using the instructions above and it has worked really well. I also shortened it but didn’t take it in at all but think I should have. Where do you take yours in?
    Loved the dress and two complements on first time of wearing!
    Thanks

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Hi Hayley, great to hear that the sleeved version worked well for you! Saara narrowed the shirt at the side seams, just by measuring how wide she wanted it to be around her knees and then reducing the necessary amount at the hem. She took quite a lot of ease off, and then drew a straight line from the hemline to the corner where the ties will be attached. You can also make the side seam a bit curvy if you want the dress to be a bit tighter at the thighs and hips :) – Laura

  8. Louise kirjoitti:

    I bought the pdf version of the kielo pattern and sadly had to print two versions of it since I’m in between two sizes (38 and 40). So I absolutely LOVE the sleeve pattern. So much easier to use :)

    I checked out your Pinterest which made me rethink the list of your patterns I would love to get. It got a lot longer! It was so inspiring to see what other people did with your patterns :) you should make sum-up blog posts and show what we make of your lovely patterns :)

    Cheers,
    Louise

    PS. I’m visiting Helsinki in January. Are there any sewing shops etc. that you can recommend?

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Hi Louise! Thanks for your comment! That is very true, the layered patterns are so much handier if you are in between sizes :) I also agree about Pinterest, it’s an excellent tool for collecting inspiration, especially since we’re talking about clothing patterns so it’s always better to see as many versions as possible! How fun that you’re visiting Helsinki! There are quite few shops here, but we would definitely recommend these: Materials (http://www.sp-materials.fi/ located on Yrjönkatu), which is a small shop but with an excellent selection of fabrics. Then on the same street there’s Villisilkki (http://www.villisilkki.fi/), which is specialized in luxury fabrics. They are a bit pricey but it’s definitely worth the visit! Next door from Villisilkki there’s a small haberdashery shop called Nappitalo. Then there’s Eurokangas (http://www.eurokangas.fi/eurokangas-eng) close to the University metro station. This is a big shop with both garment and home decor fabrics, and the selection is huge! From very cheap (and not so good quality) fabrics to very luxurious silks and designer house leftovers. Then if you have time, take the metro to Herttoniemi and go to the Marimekko outlet store (Address is Kirvesmiehenkatu 7) – they have mostly home textiles but also some garment fabrics, and it’s just like heaven there with all the colors and prints :)

      1. Louise kirjoitti:

        Saara & Laura

        Thank you so much for your reply! It seems I need to either bribe my boyfriend to come with me or find something else for him to do while I go sewing-shopping 😉

        I’ve finally started on the Kielo dress. I have high hopes for the dress and the fit. Hopefully it’ll work out just right :)

        Cheers,
        Louise

        PS. I love your xmas calendar!

  9. Emma kirjoitti:

    I was planning on drafting my own sleeve pattern for this dress to make up in a wool jersey for winter this week, and then you guys release this! It’s like you’re in my head :) Thanks for making my life so much easier, and for free too! I am also loving the new layered patterns, they are so much simpler to use.

    Thanks!

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Thanks so much Emma! Haha, great minds think alike I guess! We’re really glad to make your life little easier 😉

  10. Mariangela kirjoitti:

    Hello! How can i download the free pattern? I love the named patterns (:

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Hi Mariangela! You can download the free sleeve pattern here: http://www.namedclothing.com/product/kielo-wrap-dress-sleeve/?lang=en Just click on the ”Add to cart” button, then go to your shopping basket by clicking the ”Items” link at the very top of the page (next to the cart symbol). Proceed to checkout, where you will will be asked to enter your billing information (but don’t worry you won’t be charged for the free pattern). After that, just place the order and you’re done and the links will be sent to your e-mail :)

      1. Mariangela kirjoitti:

        Thanks!!! Xoxo

  11. Margaret kirjoitti:

    I love the new sleeve! And this striped version of the dress is just stunning! I’m looking forward to the layered PDF patterns- nice to have it all in one file!

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Thanks for your feedback Margaret! :)

  12. Erin kirjoitti:

    I have loved this dress for a long, long time, but only just recently bought the pattern. I was feeling silly for buying it as winter begins! I am So happy to have sleeves for it!!! It makes the dress completely different and gives it even more life. Thank you!

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Erin you are absolutely right! <3

  13. Tua kirjoitti:

    Apua! Nyt ei onnistu. Kun tulostan tuolla ”actual size”-asetuksella, toisen sivun testineliöstä tulee kyllä oikean kokoinen, mutta kaikkien arkkien reunoihin jää silti marginaalit. Eikö kaavojen kuitenkin pitäisi jatkua aivan paperin laitaan asti?

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Kyllä se ihan oikein menee – nuo marginaalit eivät näy ollenkaan pdf’n esikatselussa kuten ennen, mutta tulevat kyllä paperille tulostettaessa :) Nämä ovat tärkeät myös siksi, että saat arkit kiinnitettyä toisiinsa. – Laura

      1. Tua kirjoitti:

        Ahaa! Eli marginaalit arvatenkin leikataan pois? t. PDF-kaavanoviisi 😀

        1. named kirjoitti:

          Kyllä, marginaalit tosiaan leikataan pois. Apua, emme älynneet tietenkään laittaa tähän blogipostaukseen PDF-kaavan kokoamisohjeita! Mutta tässä ohjeet siis lyhyesti: Asettele ensin A4-arkit pöydälle tai lattialle oikeaan järjestykseen. Leikkaa sitten jokaisesta arkista yksi pitkä ja yksi lyhyt sivu pois marginaaleja pitkin, leikkaa jokaisesta arkista sama lyhyt ja pitkä sivu (esim. oikea reuna ja alareuna). Teippaa tai liimaa sitten arkit yhteen niin, että yhdistät aina leikatun sivun leikkaamattomaan. Kannattaa teipata ensin vaikka kaikki vaakarivit, ja sitten pystyrivit, näin teippaaminen käy aika näppärästi. Yhdistä arkit mahdollisimman huolellisesti niin, että raamit tulevat tasan ja kaavat ym. merkinnät jatkuvat sivulta toiselle sujuvasti. Tämän jälkeen arkki onkin valmis! 😀 Toivottavasti tästä oli apua!

          1. Tua kirjoitti:

            Tästä oli kovastikin apua, kiitos! :) Googlaamalla löysin muiden kaavanvalmistajien kokoamisohjeita, jotka olivat juurikin samanlaisia. Ajattelin kuitenkin varmistaa vielä, ettei tule tehtyä mitä sattuu… Kiitos tästä!

  14. Amanda kirjoitti:

    I never considered this as being a wearable style for me before, but now I am looking at this dress with an all new perspective, and I love it!! The stripey fabric is AWESOME ^_^ I love the idea of add-ons to your existing patterns, especially since I find I have wanted to make them multiple times, so it’s nice to have options to make each one a bit different ^_^

    I (sadly) missed the discount but am definitely going to purchase Kielo now!

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Yay, that’s really great to hear! And we agree, the dress looks very good and natural with the sleeves. And you’re absolutely right, it’s always better to have a pattern that you can use many times for different variations. :) The Nosh striped jersey is really gorgeous, but now that I checked, it seemed that they didn’t have it in their web shop, which is a real pity!

  15. Eeva kirjoitti:

    Moi,

    Paljonko teillä meni kangasta tähän hihalliseen Kielo-mekkoon tuon pituisena?

    1. named kirjoitti:

      Itse asiassa tähän taisi mennä kangasta melkein saman verran kuin tuohon pitkäänkin versioon, koska leikkasimme myös kietaisunauhat pystysuuntaan. Kangasta meni noin 235 cm, mutta valitattavasti hukkaa syntyi aika paljon :/ Kangasta säästyy melkoisesti, jos leikkaat kietaisunauhat vaakasuuntaan, silloin kangasmenekki polvipituiseen mekkoon koossa 38 on noin 205 cm. Tuo on laskettu 150 cm leveälle kankaalle ja kutistumisvaraa on 5%. Mutta riippuu myös paljon kankaan leveydestä, valitsemastasi koosta sekä mekon pituudesta, että kuinka paljon kangasta loppujen lopuksi menee, toivottavasti näistä on kuitenkin edes vähän apua! :)

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