2.11.2015 - Tips & Tutorials

Kielo Sleeve & Layered PDF Tutorial

Here’s a brief tutorial for using the free Kielo sleeve pattern, from printing and putting together the pattern to finishing the sleeve! We are testing a new kind of pattern layout, a layered pattern, where all patterns and both languages are on the same file, and you can choose to print your patterns in the correct language and in the desired size. Here’s how to work with the layered pattern:

  • First, open the pattern file in Adobe Acrobat Pro or Arobe Reader. If you don’t have one of these softwares, you can download the Reader for free from here.
  • We used Acrobat Pro and a Mac, but the file will open in a similar window whether you use the Reader or Acrobat, Mac or PC. When you open the file, it will look like a mess, because both languages and all sizes are on top of each other. To see only your own size and language, click on the ’layers’ symbol on the left side bar (see image).

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  • You will see a list of all layers included in the file, in the menu on the left. When a layer is visible, a small eye symbol will appear next to it. To close a layer, simply click on the eye symbol, and the layer will be deactivated and it will disappear.

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  • Now, choose only the language and size(s) you want to print, and make sure the eye symbol is visible next to those layers, and all other layers are turned off. ’English’, naturally, means the English texts, and ’Suomi’ means Finnish. For example here, I have chosen to print the sizes 38 and 40 in English – see the eye symbols next to those layers.

Layered_Pattern3

  • Once you have chosen the right layers, click ’File -> Print’. This way only the visible layers will be printed.
  • At the print preview, make sure to choose the ’Actual size’, so the pattern will be printed in the correct scale. After this, just print the pattern and continue normally by taping and glueing the sheets together!

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Once you have completed the sheet, cut or trace the sleeve off from it. Trace also the Kielo Dress patterns completely from their own sheet and with the original armholes, but don’t cut them out yet (in the image the original Kielo armhole is drawn with blue marker). Place the traced Kielo patterns on top of the armholes in the sleeve pattern sheet. Make sure that the shoulder and side seams of the two patterns are on top of each other and that the bust darts match.

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Attach with weights and make sure the patterns stay still and don’t shift. Copy the new armhole shape to the original Kielo pattern – if you want, you can use a different color to tell the two armholes apart (in the image the new armhole is drawn with red). If you have a printed pattern, make sure to align the armhole with the stitching lines of the new armhole (the inner lines).

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Remember to also copy the seam allowances and all notches to your Kielo pattern! Then just cut the patterns off and cut your fabric normally.

You can follow the regular Kielo instructions for making the dress, but with these exceptions:

  • Use a knit fabric with approximately 50% stretch. You can sew all plain seams with a serger. Remember to also use stretch stitch on your sewing machine.
  • After you have sewn the bust darts, contour darts and CB seam with the vent, sew the shoulder seams. Sew a strip of clear elastic to the shoulder seam to prevent it from stretching out of shape.
  • Sew the sleeve to the armhole, matching notches. Note that the sleeve will be placed between the two little ’corners’ where the armhole ends and the side seam starts. These are indicated by notches (and Saara’s fingers in this image).

Kielo1

  •  Sew the sleeve on, easing in the sleeve cap a bit, and press the seam allowances towards the dress.

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  • Fold the sleeve right sides together and pin the sleeve seam, and the side seam until the ’corner’ in the side seam and sew.

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  • Fold the 2 cm hem allowance to the wrong side at the sleeve opening, press, pin and stitch using stretch stitch.
  • Continue by following the Kielo instructions – make the belt, pin it to the side seam and sew the side seam from the ’corner’ down to the hem. Finish the bottom edge and the neckline and voilá!

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Now, we would love to hear some feedback from you regarding the layered pattern and the whole concept of having a free add-on to a pattern. Did you find these easy to work with, and what could we improve? All feedback will be very helpful! <3

Remember that the Kielo discount is still valid today (and only today)! By using this code at the checkout, you’ll get 15% off of the original price of the Kielo Dress, printed or pdf (the sleeve works for both of them):

KIELOWRAPDRESS

Happy sewing!
Laura & Saara

*******

Patterns: Kielo Wrap Dress & Kielo Wrap Dress Sleeve

Fabric: Nosh Organics

1.11.2015 - Dresses , Finished , Inspiration , Tips & Tutorials

Kielo Wrap Dress

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Kielo Dress is one of the most popular dress patterns in our selection, maybe because it’s so simple and quick to make, but it also has an interesting and very special shape. This is why it’s such a shame that it can really only be worn in the summer! As a sleeveless style Kielo is quite impossible to wear when the weather gets colder, and because of the peculiar shape, it’s kind of hard to combine with a cardigan or a jacket. This is probably why we have been asked for a sleeve pattern for this style quite a lot. Which is a great idea, so here you go!

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You can now download a free sleeve pattern for the Kielo Dress in our web shop. You can order the sleeve simply by adding the pattern to the shopping basket, and by following the same purchase process as when ordering any regular pattern. But note that even though you’ll have to go to the checkout and give your billing information, you will not be charged for the pattern.

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The sleeve pattern sheet includes the Kielo sleeve pattern in sizes EUR32 – 46 (US0 – 18 & UK4 – 22), and a front and back armhole pattern, which you can trace onto the original front and back pieces of the Kielo pattern to make the sleeve fit right.

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We are also trying a new pattern format: a layered pattern. This means that all sizes are in the same file, nested on top of each other, but you can choose to print only one or two (or three, or as many as you need) of the sizes. We will publish another blog post tomorrow, with a tutorial on how to use a layered pattern, and a quick how-to for tracing the armhole onto your Kielo pattern, and for sewing the sleeve.

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The sleeve pattern does not include an instructions file, so all the instructions can be found in the blog post tomorrow. Note also, that the pattern has been tested only in size 38. The pattern should work very well in all sizes, but we very strongly advice making a toile before starting with your actual fabric, just to make sure the sleeve fits ok for you. If you find anything odd in the pattern or in the fit, please let us know! We would also love to hear your comments regarding the layered pattern, whether you think it’s easy and handy to use or if there’s something to improve. It would be lovely if you could write your comments here in the blog, or send us a mail to info@namedclothing.com!

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One more thing about the sleeve: the pattern is very snug, and it’s meant to be sewn from a knit fabric (choose something with approximately 50% stretch). Saara used a firm single knit organic cotton jersey (95% cotton, 5% elastan) for her graphic Kielo dress. This fabric is from Nosh Organics , and it is quite perfect for Kielo, because it has such a nice, stiffish structure that gives the dress a beautiful origami-like shape. A lighter knit fabric works just as well, giving the dress a more draped and soft look.

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Saara also shortened her Kielo until just below her knees, and narrowed the skirt a bit at the hemline and hips. She finished the neckline with a facing.

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(By the way, having the dogs over for daycare and trying to shoot blog post images at the same time turned out to be a bit more challenging than we thought, and all the images were photobombed by two curious Jackrussells. Thanks a lot Aida and Kusti!)

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If you don’t already have a Kielo pattern to add the sleeves to, you can order it from our web shop with a 15% discount! Just use the below code at the checkout:

KIELOWRAPDRESS

The discount applies to both pdf and printed Kielo patterns, and it is only valid for two days, Sunday & Monday 1st and 2nd of November! Remember to check the blog post tomorrow for instructions on how to use the add-on pattern!

XO

Saara & Laura

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Patterns: Kielo Wrap Dress & Kielo Wrap Dress Sleeve

Fabric: Nosh Organics

Models: Saara, Aida & Kusti

Photos: Laura

1.7.2015 - casualwear , Sportswear , Tips & Tutorials , Trousers & Shorts , Uncategorized

Alexandria Pocket & Pleats Tutorial

I hope you all read the Alexandria Track Pants post that was published yesterday. If not, scroll down to the article below to see what we’re talking about!

Ok, let’s cut to the chase, the promised Alexandria pocket tutorial: These pants are quite simple to make, the front pocket and pleat construction being probably the most demanding feature in the whole project. We assembled a little step-by-step tutorial for the pockets so you can be sure to nail them!

First, let it be said that the Alexandria pocket bag is kind of small, so if you need bigger pockets, feel free to draft them a little deeper. For me they were ok, since I don’t need them to store anything else except my hands once in a while.

Ok, start with the front piece, and the outer pocket bag (which is the slightly bigger pocket piece). I used a light jersey for pocketing, and Nosh Organics Denim-look Sweatshirt Jersey for the pants. Pin those two pieces right sides together at the pocket opening and sew. I used a serger since I’m working with knits. If you use a woven fabric, I suggest stitching with a regular sewing machine, then clipping the curves slightly and serging the raw edges together.

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Take the front corner piece and the inner pocket bag (smaller pocket piece). With right sides together again, pin the pieces together. Note that as you need to pin the outside curve to inside curve, the pocket bag will get a little creased and wonky-looking. Don’t worry about this, just make sure that the raw edges are even, and that you don’t machine over any of those wrinkles. I work so that I pin the top edges first, then the bottom and work from there towards the curve. This way it’s easiest to pin the pieces evenly.

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After sewing the pocket bags, press them carefully. Press the inner pocket bag’s seam allowances towards the pocket bag and understitch. I used a regular stitch, since this part doesn’t necessarily need to stretch ever, and the stretch stitch tends to ”curl” the fabric. Press the outer pocket bag carefully to the wrong side, but don’t understitch.

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Place the pocket bags together, right sides against each other. Make sure that the pocket is set correctly and pin. Sew the pieces together and press.

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Now the pocket itself is basically finished, and it’s time to form the front pleats. This is the key design feature in this otherwise very basic style. It’s very very simple, but it has to be done right so that it looks good and all the pieces match. First, pin the pocket bag to the side of the front piece, to make sure it’s set on its correct spot. There’s a notch which should be matched with the pocket opening.

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There are two pleats on each front piece. The first pleat is created by matching the two notches closer to the center front: make the notches meet right sides together, fold the pleat towards the center front and pin in place.

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The second pleat is a bit trickier – the pleat is created by matching the third, outermost notch on the front piece, with the only waist notch on the front corner piece. This way, the top of the pocket opening is actually folded inside the pleat (see image). After matching the notches, pin the pleat and the top of the pocket bags to the waist and secure with a baste seam. As you can see, the front piece-to-pocket bag seam will be enclosed under the pleat, and the pleat will cover the top of the pocket opening.

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Secure the the pleats (and the pocket to the side seam) with a baste seam. After attaching the pleats, just continue sewing the pants normally; sew the leg seams, crotch and waistband making sure that the pleats and the pocket bag stay in place!

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Ta-dah! This pattern works just as well in a woven fabric, even though I used a jersey here. If you go for woven, choose a light woven fabric for the pocketing as well.

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Remember that our Alexandria discount coupon is still valid today! Just use this code at the checkout:

TRACKSUITUP

Happy sewing!
Laura

Pattern: Alexandria Peg Trousers & Track Shorts

Fabric: Nosh Organics Denim-look Jersey, Navy

Images: Saara

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