Take a look at the Inari blog post that we released yesterday! You can download the free add-on pattern here, and read the instructions below. Remember also our Inari discount: the pdf pattern is now 10 €, and the discount is valid ONLY today, with this code:
The free add-on pattern includes both the collar, and the long sleeve variation. The collar is ideal to be made in a woven (or well-interfaced knit) fabric, preferably something in the semi light- to medium-weight end. The sleeves are a little more relaxed than the original Inari sleeve, with more ease, so they are perfect for using soft and relaxed fabrics such as sweatshirt jersey.
First, cut out the dress/tee and collar pieces. Cut out 4 collar pieces, and make sure you have 2 for the right collar and 2 for the left. Cut also 2 interfacings for the collar.
Before removing your pattern pieces, snip an additional notch on the front neckline, 1,5 cm apart from the center front – this is the spot where you will match the collar at front. Interface the upper collar pieces, as well as the facings.
Sew the shoulder seams of the dress and it’s facing, as instructed in the Inari instructions. Serge the bottom edge of the facing to neaten it up.
Sew the upper (interfaced) collar pieces to the under ones (un-interfaced). Make 1 or 2 diagonal stitches at the corners, this way they will become sharp. Clip the seam allowances at the corners, and at the curved edges.
Turn the collars right side out and press carefully. Pin them to the neckline, interfaced side up and so that you match the collar to the notches at front (1,5 cm from the CF notch), and to the CB notch at the back neckline.
Pin the facing on top of the collar, right side against the collar and sew through all 4 layers.
Clip the seam allowances around the shoulder seams and at the curves. Press the seam allowances towards the facing and understitch. Press the facing to the wrong side and pin it to the dress/tee. Stitch along the facing edge to fasten it inside the garment. Make sure not to stitch very close to the CF and CB, as the stitches will show on the outside of the garment.
Your collar is ready! Continue to sewing the sleeve: Sew the sleeves to the armholes, right sides together and matching single and double notches. Serge the seam allowances together and press them towards the dress. Serge the sleeve openings.
Serge the raw sleeve and side edges. Sew the sleeve seam and the side seam in one continuous seam, finishing at the vent notch. Press the seam allowances open.
Fold 3 cm to the wrong side at the sleeve openings, press and stitch in place. Sew the vents, bottom edge and sleeve openings as instructed in the Inari instructions.
All done! Our special thanks go to our intern Anneli who sewed this Inari dress <3
Our Xmas calendar starts today! From today until the 24th we will open a new window every day, revealing an interesting discount/offer/tip/other holiday-related thing! The discounts and offers are usually valid for only a day or two, so don’t forget to visit our Facebook page or Instagram daily!
This year we’ll start big with a brand new, FREE add-on pattern for the Inari Dress / Tee! The pattern includes a Peter Pan collar, and a long sleeve variation for the Inari, and you can download it for free here. Note that the pdf includes only the pattern, and the sewing instructions will be posted on our blog tomorrow.
Don’t you just hate it when you end up with a bunch of leftover scraps after every sewing project? We never dare to just throw them away, and therefore end up having a ton of little scarp pieces in our closets. It’s especially hard to let go of fabrics that are very special – it’s natural that you want to use them to the very last bit, just to make the most out of them! This is what happened to our Sprout Kielo leftovers (You can see the original Kielo post here). We already used some of the scraps around the pattern pieces to make the Kielo facing, but we still ended up with some bits and pieces that we just didn’t want to throw away.
The leftover pieces were too small for an entire garment, but they were big enough to be used for a small accessory, or a detail on another garment. Things like collars, pockets and cuffs are always great for using your leftover fabrics. Depending on the fabric and the desired effect, you can also use the scraps for things like pocket bags, facings and linings on smaller projects. We settled for a collar, because it’s just the perfect spot for displaying such a nice fabric, and chose to sew it on the Inari dress. Our trainee Anneli actually made the pattern for this big Peter Pan collar. She also made a brand new pattern for the long sleeve, which is great news to all of you living in the northern hemisphere at this time of the year!
Somehow large Peter Pan collars like this look very “Christmassy”, so it will make a great Xmas party dress. Inari also has quite a lot of space around the waist, which makes it ideal for Xmas dinner…
The collar and the sleeve are very easy to apply to Inari, without any alterations to the original pattern. Make sure to pop by our blog tomorrow, as we release another blog post for sewing the collar and the sleeve!
As the first offer of our Xmas calendar, the Inari pdf pattern is now only 10 € (from 13)! The discount is valid today and tomorrow, with this code:
XXX Saara & Laura
Sewing a facing is a good idea whenever you want a clean-cut result, without visible topstitching showing on the outside of your garment. The original Kielo doesn’t come with a facing pattern, but making one yourself is very simple! There’s also much free space in the printed Sprout Kielo pattern, if you want to make the facing of the same fabric as the outside of the dress, just like we did. Here’s a short tutorial for this technique:
First, make the facing pattern: Print out (and assemble, if needed) the top of your Kielo dress pattern, and cut out the front piece’s top part. Cut it into two along the bust dart, and tape back together to close the dart.
Draw the facing on the front and back pieces so that it’s approximately 6 cm wide at the neckline and armhole. Start drawing from the center front / back, 6 cm / 2½” apart from the neckline, and finish approximately 2,5 cm / 1” below the armhole notch. Make sure that the line starts at a 90 degree angle at both ends, and that the line is smooth and natural. Remove the 1 cm / ⅜” seam allowance from the center back edge of the back facing pattern, so that you can cut the pattern on fold. Cut out both facing patterns.
Cut 1 of each facing piece (front facing and back facing), on fold. Make sure to snip the armhole notches on the facing pieces. Cut also an interfacing for both facings. Use a fusible interfacing and choose the color, weight and amount of stretch according to your fabric. We used a light interfacing with a tad of stretch. You can cut off about 8 mm from the interfacings’ seam allowances at the neckline, shoulder seam, armhole and side seam, to avoid them from becoming too thick and bulky. Fuse the interfacings on the facing pieces. Serge the raw bottom edges of the facings.
Make sure you have your dress sewn up to the point that you have sewn all darts, shoulder seams, center back seam, and that the wrap ties are completely sewn and turned right side out. Then sew the shoulder seams of your facing and press open.
With right sides together, pin the facing and the dress together at the neckline and sew. Clip the seam allowances carefully, especially on the tight curve around the shoulder seam. Fold the facing to the wrong side and press carefully. Pull it back out and understitch the seam allowances to the facing.
Now comes the part that is a little fiddly: Place your facing back inside the dress, matching the armholes. Put your hand to the wrong side of the garment, in between the facing and the dress (where Saara’s hand is in the image below).
Grab one front armhole by its seam allowances and pull it carefully to the wrong side in order to place the facing and dress armhole edges right sides together. Pin the front armholes together from the armhole notch, all the way to the shoulder seam, and sew from the armhole notch to the shoulder seam.
Clip seam allowances carefully, and repeat for the other front armhole. Pull the garment right side out again, and repeat the whole thing to the back armholes so that you sew them from the side seam up until the shoulder seam, to the spot where the front armhole seam ends.
Pull the garment right side out again and press the armholes very carefully. Now, understitch the armholes in a similar manner, in four steps: first one front armhole from the side seam to as close to the shoulder seam as possible (the shoulder strap is very narrow, so you probably won’t reach the shoulder seam, but that’s completely ok). Then the other front armhole, and the back armholes, one by one.
Now you have your facing attached, and all you need to do is finish up the rest of your dress! Start by pinning (or basting) the ties to their place on the side seam, marked by notches. Then sew the side seam from the armhole notch (in the pic below) down to the hem and serge the raw seam allowances to neaten them up. Hem the back vent and the bottom edge of the dress.
To finish the facing, fold it to the wrong side, and sew the short side seam closed by hand. Make sure to also attach it to the side seam of the dress. Hand-stitch the facing to the dress also at the center back seam. (We ran a little out of time making our dresses, and that’s why in the last pic Saara is doing all the hand-sewing at our hotel room in Berlin, just before the Sprout fashion show).
So there! Facings seem to divide people into two groups: ones that can’t stand them, and ones that love them. We belong to the latter, mostly because of the simple look you get without visible topstitching (which can be especially annoying on print fabrics when it’s hard to pick a topstitch color that doesn’t pop out too much), and a rather hassle-free sewing method. But if you hate sewing facings or are afraid of them flipping out, you can easily follow the original instructions and sew either a narrow hem, or a bias tape facing!
Remember that the 20% discount on all Named patterns on Sprout is still valid today and tomorrow! Use the code: NAMEDLOVE
x x x Saara & Laura