Kielo Wrap Dress
Kielo Dress is one of the most popular dress patterns in our selection, maybe because it’s so simple and quick to make, but it also has an interesting and very special shape. This is why it’s such a shame that it can really only be worn in the summer! As a sleeveless style Kielo is quite impossible to wear when the weather gets colder, and because of the peculiar shape, it’s kind of hard to combine with a cardigan or a jacket. This is probably why we have been asked for a sleeve pattern for this style quite a lot. Which is a great idea, so here you go!
You can now download a free sleeve pattern for the Kielo Dress in our web shop. You can order the sleeve simply by adding the pattern to the shopping basket, and by following the same purchase process as when ordering any regular pattern. But note that even though you’ll have to go to the checkout and give your billing information, you will not be charged for the pattern.
The sleeve pattern sheet includes the Kielo sleeve pattern in sizes EUR32 – 46 (US0 – 18 & UK4 – 22), and a front and back armhole pattern, which you can trace onto the original front and back pieces of the Kielo pattern to make the sleeve fit right.
We are also trying a new pattern format: a layered pattern. This means that all sizes are in the same file, nested on top of each other, but you can choose to print only one or two (or three, or as many as you need) of the sizes. We will publish another blog post tomorrow, with a tutorial on how to use a layered pattern, and a quick how-to for tracing the armhole onto your Kielo pattern, and for sewing the sleeve.
The sleeve pattern does not include an instructions file, so all the instructions can be found in the blog post tomorrow. Note also, that the pattern has been tested only in size 38. The pattern should work very well in all sizes, but we very strongly advice making a toile before starting with your actual fabric, just to make sure the sleeve fits ok for you. If you find anything odd in the pattern or in the fit, please let us know! We would also love to hear your comments regarding the layered pattern, whether you think it’s easy and handy to use or if there’s something to improve. It would be lovely if you could write your comments here in the blog, or send us a mail to firstname.lastname@example.org!
One more thing about the sleeve: the pattern is very snug, and it’s meant to be sewn from a knit fabric (choose something with approximately 50% stretch). Saara used a firm single knit organic cotton jersey (95% cotton, 5% elastan) for her graphic Kielo dress. This fabric is from Nosh Organics , and it is quite perfect for Kielo, because it has such a nice, stiffish structure that gives the dress a beautiful origami-like shape. A lighter knit fabric works just as well, giving the dress a more draped and soft look.
Saara also shortened her Kielo until just below her knees, and narrowed the skirt a bit at the hemline and hips. She finished the neckline with a facing.
(By the way, having the dogs over for daycare and trying to shoot blog post images at the same time turned out to be a bit more challenging than we thought, and all the images were photobombed by two curious Jackrussells. Thanks a lot Aida and Kusti!)
If you don’t already have a Kielo pattern to add the sleeves to, you can order it from our web shop with a 15% discount! Just use the below code at the checkout:
The discount applies to both pdf and printed Kielo patterns, and it is only valid for two days, Sunday & Monday 1st and 2nd of November! Remember to check the blog post tomorrow for instructions on how to use the add-on pattern!
Saara & Laura
Fabric: Nosh Organics
Models: Saara, Aida & Kusti
Alexandria Pocket & Pleats Tutorial
I hope you all read the Alexandria Track Pants post that was published yesterday. If not, scroll down to the article below to see what we’re talking about!
Ok, let’s cut to the chase, the promised Alexandria pocket tutorial: These pants are quite simple to make, the front pocket and pleat construction being probably the most demanding feature in the whole project. We assembled a little step-by-step tutorial for the pockets so you can be sure to nail them!
First, let it be said that the Alexandria pocket bag is kind of small, so if you need bigger pockets, feel free to draft them a little deeper. For me they were ok, since I don’t need them to store anything else except my hands once in a while.
Ok, start with the front piece, and the outer pocket bag (which is the slightly bigger pocket piece). I used a light jersey for pocketing, and Nosh Organics Denim-look Sweatshirt Jersey for the pants. Pin those two pieces right sides together at the pocket opening and sew. I used a serger since I’m working with knits. If you use a woven fabric, I suggest stitching with a regular sewing machine, then clipping the curves slightly and serging the raw edges together.
Take the front corner piece and the inner pocket bag (smaller pocket piece). With right sides together again, pin the pieces together. Note that as you need to pin the outside curve to inside curve, the pocket bag will get a little creased and wonky-looking. Don’t worry about this, just make sure that the raw edges are even, and that you don’t machine over any of those wrinkles. I work so that I pin the top edges first, then the bottom and work from there towards the curve. This way it’s easiest to pin the pieces evenly.
After sewing the pocket bags, press them carefully. Press the inner pocket bag’s seam allowances towards the pocket bag and understitch. I used a regular stitch, since this part doesn’t necessarily need to stretch ever, and the stretch stitch tends to ”curl” the fabric. Press the outer pocket bag carefully to the wrong side, but don’t understitch.
Place the pocket bags together, right sides against each other. Make sure that the pocket is set correctly and pin. Sew the pieces together and press.
Now the pocket itself is basically finished, and it’s time to form the front pleats. This is the key design feature in this otherwise very basic style. It’s very very simple, but it has to be done right so that it looks good and all the pieces match. First, pin the pocket bag to the side of the front piece, to make sure it’s set on its correct spot. There’s a notch which should be matched with the pocket opening.
There are two pleats on each front piece. The first pleat is created by matching the two notches closer to the center front: make the notches meet right sides together, fold the pleat towards the center front and pin in place.
The second pleat is a bit trickier – the pleat is created by matching the third, outermost notch on the front piece, with the only waist notch on the front corner piece. This way, the top of the pocket opening is actually folded inside the pleat (see image). After matching the notches, pin the pleat and the top of the pocket bags to the waist and secure with a baste seam. As you can see, the front piece-to-pocket bag seam will be enclosed under the pleat, and the pleat will cover the top of the pocket opening.
Secure the the pleats (and the pocket to the side seam) with a baste seam. After attaching the pleats, just continue sewing the pants normally; sew the leg seams, crotch and waistband making sure that the pleats and the pocket bag stay in place!
Ta-dah! This pattern works just as well in a woven fabric, even though I used a jersey here. If you go for woven, choose a light woven fabric for the pocketing as well.
Remember that our Alexandria discount coupon is still valid today! Just use this code at the checkout:
Track suit up!
I’m not a big fan of wearing jeans in the summer, actually I retired my jeans already a couple of months ago. But the thing with jeans is that they are so functional, a garment that you can wear with nearly any top, and to almost any occasion. Basically, a piece of clothing that you can always count on. So, if not jeans, what pants can you wear in the summer? Something casual and comfortable that works with anything? My solution would be track pants! I love it how it’s completely appropriate – even encouraged – to wear sweats out in the public nowadays! I really feel grateful for all this sports inspired fashion, it’s nice to be able to dress comfortably and still not be frowned upon!
I’ve seen a variety of sports inspired pant fashion on the streets of Helsinki, from colorful skin-tight leggings to slouchy sweatpants, but for myself I needed a pair that is quite casual, just a tad sporty, but still a bit sophisticated (if you can ever use that word for a pair of sweats?). Alexandria pants had been on my to-do for a while, and when I found the Nosh Organics’ denim-look sweatshirt jersey, I knew instantly that I needed Alexandria pants in that exact fabric! They would be just as cool and easy to wear as jeans, with the comfortability of sweatpants!
Long story short, I ordered the fabric, made the pants and now I’m loving them! And my point was perfectly proved when my mom saw these pants for the first time and said that they look just like jeans! Well, they don’t look exactly like jeans, they are clearly track pants, but the denim-imitation jersey just makes them so much cooler than normal sweats, and also more appropriate for everyday use. Yay! I have been wearing them with shirts, tees and sweatshirts, and honestly I think they look quite ok with most tops (the pink silk top in the images is RTW).
I chose the size EUR 40 and didn’t make any major alterations to the pattern, except shortened the legs by a good 12 cm (yes, I’m a hobbit). I also just finished the leg openings with a serger and then rolled them up and stitched for a more casual look (and because the wrong side of the fabric looks so cool and I wanted to show it off, too).
The fabric is clearly of very good quality (it’s 96% organic cotton, 4% elastan), since I have been wearing these for a week and there’s zero bagging at the butt and knee area, which is something that usually bugs me the most with sweats. Also, I can’t stress enough how fantastic it is to be able to move so freely! Nothing beats jersey and elastic waist, I’m telling you!
How do you feel about wearing sweatpants elsewhere than in the running track or gym?
Stay tuned for the part 2 of the Alexandria mini series, as tomorrow we will post a tutorial on the Alexandria front pocket & pleats construction!
Uh, oh! Also, note that you will get a 20% discount on the Alexandria pattern (printed or pdf) TODAY AND TOMORROW, with this coupon code: