Collars

 

There are a variety of different styles of collars and their initial purpose is to finish the neckline. Collars are also decorative and personal details. The top collar is the outer, visible side of a collar, whereas under collar is the under side that will remain under the top one. The stand of a collar is a separate panel between the actual collar and the neckline. Shive is a thin strip in between the collar and neckline.

Straight collar:

Construction of a straight collar is very simple and easy to make. The collar tips can either be sharp or rounded. They can be on the front or back side of the garment, depending on where the garment’s closure is. A straight collar’s ends can be overlapping or placed next to or apart from each other. If you make a straight collar on a piece that is buttoned at the front so that the collar overlaps and continues all the way to the edges of the button stand you can make it the same way as a stand of a regular collar.

  1. Interface the top collar.
  2. If the collar consists of more than one piece, sew the pieces together and press open.
  3. Pin the top and under collars to each other, right sides together and sew the outside edge. If the collar corners are sharp, press the top collar seam allowance towards the bottom collar and sew the collar ends.
  4. Trim the seam allowances in corners or clip the curves, turn the collar right side out and press.
  5. If you want, stitch the collar edge.
  6. Sew the open edges of the collar together approximately 5 mm from the edge.
  7. Place the collar on neckline in the desired position so that the top collar is against the bodice’s right side. If the style has a facing at the neckline, place the collar between the bodice and facing.
  8. Sew the collar on, clip the seam allowances if needed and turn right side out.
  9. Press the collar.

Two-piece collar:

This is the most classical type of collar and is usually used in shirts. The two-piece collar consists of two parts; the collar and the stand. The stand’s ends overlap at the front and are usually fastened with a button.

  1. Interface the top collar and the stand’s inner piece.
  2. Pin the top and under collars to each other, right sides together and sew so that you make one cross stitch in the corner. Trim or clip the seam allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out and press.
  3. If you want, stitch the edge of the collar.
  4. Press the bottom seam allowances of the interfaced stand piece to the wrong side.
  5. Pin the pieces of the stand to each other so that the collar is placed between them in the desired position. The interfaced collar should be on the interfaced stand’s side.
  6. Sew the stand, clip seam allowances in corners and turn right side out. Press the stand.
  7. If you want, stitch the stand’s edge (this is recommended so that the stand will keep its proper shape).
  8. Place the stand on the bodice’s neckline, right sides together so that the ends of the stand will continue one millimeter over the neckline’s edges.
  9. Sew the collar on, clip seam allowances and turn right side out so that the seam allowances are folded inside the stand. Press.
  10. Place the inner stand’s folded bottom edge on top of the seam and stitch from front side along the join seam or from the join’s edge.
  11. Press the Collar.

Shawl collar:

Shawl collar is a longer, more open and scarf-like collar that is folded from the front edges of the bodice. A shawl collar is often open at the front and fastened with buttons, but it can be sewn closed from front.

  1. Interface the collar facings.
  2. Sew the bodice’s collar ends together (center back seam) and press open.
  3. Sew the facing’s collar ends together (center back seam) and press open.
  4. Sew the bodice’s shoulder seams so that you start from the armhole and end in the corner close to the collar, at a point that is the seam allowance’s distance from each edge.
  5. Sew the bottom edge of the collar on the back shell’s neckline as close to the shoulder seams as possible. Press.
  6. Pin and sew the facing on the bodice’s collar, right sides together, turn right side out and press. The open inside edge of the facing can be sewn onto the lining or stitched to the bodice from the front side but it can also be left open.
  7. If you want, stitch the edge of the collar.
  8. Press the collar.

Tie collar:

Tie collar is a variation of straight collar. The collar’s ends continue as long laces that can be tied. The shape of the laces vary according to each style. The fastening of a tie collar can be at the front, side or back.

  1. The tie collar does not necessarily need to be interfaced – without interfacing it will drape softly like a scarf. If you want to have a stiffer result you can interface the top collar.
  2. If the collar consist of more than one piece, sew the pieces together and press open.
  3. Place the pieces of the collar right sides together and sew the first lace starting from the front notch. Continue to the second lace and finish at the front notch on other side.
  4. Trim seam allowances in corners and turn right side out. Press.
  5. Press the under collar’s bottom seam allowances to wrong side.
  6. Place the collar on the bodice’s neckline, right sides together, so that the collar is fastened only until the inner edge of the button stand.
  7. Sew the collar on, clip the seam allowances and turn right side out so that the seam allowances are folded inside the collar. Press.
  8. Place the folded inside edge of the under collar on top of the seam and stitch from front side along the join seam or on the edge of the join.
  9. Press the collar.