Kielo Sleeve & Layered PDF Tutorial
Here’s a brief tutorial for using the free Kielo sleeve pattern, from printing and putting together the pattern to finishing the sleeve! We are testing a new kind of pattern layout, a layered pattern, where all patterns and both languages are on the same file, and you can choose to print your patterns in the correct language and in the desired size. Here’s how to work with the layered pattern:
- First, open the pattern file in Adobe Acrobat Pro or Arobe Reader. If you don’t have one of these softwares, you can download the Reader for free from here.
- We used Acrobat Pro and a Mac, but the file will open in a similar window whether you use the Reader or Acrobat, Mac or PC. When you open the file, it will look like a mess, because both languages and all sizes are on top of each other. To see only your own size and language, click on the ’layers’ symbol on the left side bar (see image).
- You will see a list of all layers included in the file, in the menu on the left. When a layer is visible, a small eye symbol will appear next to it. To close a layer, simply click on the eye symbol, and the layer will be deactivated and it will disappear.
- Now, choose only the language and size(s) you want to print, and make sure the eye symbol is visible next to those layers, and all other layers are turned off. ’English’, naturally, means the English texts, and ’Suomi’ means Finnish. For example here, I have chosen to print the sizes 38 and 40 in English – see the eye symbols next to those layers.
- Once you have chosen the right layers, click ’File -> Print’. This way only the visible layers will be printed.
- At the print preview, make sure to choose the ’Actual size’, so the pattern will be printed in the correct scale. After this, just print the pattern and continue normally by taping and glueing the sheets together!
Once you have completed the sheet, cut or trace the sleeve off from it. Trace also the Kielo Dress patterns completely from their own sheet and with the original armholes, but don’t cut them out yet (in the image the original Kielo armhole is drawn with blue marker). Place the traced Kielo patterns on top of the armholes in the sleeve pattern sheet. Make sure that the shoulder and side seams of the two patterns are on top of each other and that the bust darts match.
Attach with weights and make sure the patterns stay still and don’t shift. Copy the new armhole shape to the original Kielo pattern – if you want, you can use a different color to tell the two armholes apart (in the image the new armhole is drawn with red). If you have a printed pattern, make sure to align the armhole with the stitching lines of the new armhole (the inner lines).
Remember to also copy the seam allowances and all notches to your Kielo pattern! Then just cut the patterns off and cut your fabric normally.
You can follow the regular Kielo instructions for making the dress, but with these exceptions:
- Use a knit fabric with approximately 50% stretch. You can sew all plain seams with a serger. Remember to also use stretch stitch on your sewing machine.
- After you have sewn the bust darts, contour darts and CB seam with the vent, sew the shoulder seams. Sew a strip of clear elastic to the shoulder seam to prevent it from stretching out of shape.
- Sew the sleeve to the armhole, matching notches. Note that the sleeve will be placed between the two little ’corners’ where the armhole ends and the side seam starts. These are indicated by notches (and Saara’s fingers in this image).
- Sew the sleeve on, easing in the sleeve cap a bit, and press the seam allowances towards the dress.
- Fold the sleeve right sides together and pin the sleeve seam, and the side seam until the ’corner’ in the side seam and sew.
- Fold the 2 cm hem allowance to the wrong side at the sleeve opening, press, pin and stitch using stretch stitch.
- Continue by following the Kielo instructions – make the belt, pin it to the side seam and sew the side seam from the ’corner’ down to the hem. Finish the bottom edge and the neckline and voilá!
Now, we would love to hear some feedback from you regarding the layered pattern and the whole concept of having a free add-on to a pattern. Did you find these easy to work with, and what could we improve? All feedback will be very helpful! <3
Remember that the Kielo discount is still valid today (and only today)! By using this code at the checkout, you’ll get 15% off of the original price of the Kielo Dress, printed or pdf (the sleeve works for both of them):
Laura & Saara
Fabric: Nosh Organics