Seams

 

The most common seam construction is a plain seam. However, there are a variety of different kinds of seams that are suitable for different fabrics and garments. By using different seams, you can create garments that are durable and look more finished. Several seams can be used as decorative details, for example the French seam on translucent materials.

Plain seam:

  1. Finish the raw edges separately or, after sewing the seam, together.
  2. Pin the pieces right sides together, sew and press the seam allowances open or to one side.
  3. If you want, you can stitch the seam allowances from the front side.
  4. Press the seam.

French seam:

Fabric edges do not need to be finished.

  1. Pin the pieces wrong sides together and sew 4 mm from the edge of the fabric. Press the seam allowances on one side.
  2. Fold and pin the pieces right sides together so that the first seam and seam allowances are enclosed inside.
  3. Sew another stitch 6 mm from the edge.
  4. Press the seam.

Flat felled seam (Denim seam):

Fabric edges do not need to be finished.

  1. Pin the pieces wrong sides together so that one of the edges is 10 mm apart from the other.
  2. Sew the pieces together 5 mm from the narrower edge.
  3. Fold and press seam allowances on the side of the narrow seam allowance, so that the wider seam allowance is on top.
  4. Fold 5 mm of the edge of the wide seam allowance under the seam allowances and press if needed.
  5. Stitch close to the fold.
  6. Press the seam.

Hem seam:

Fabric edges do not need to be finished.

  1. Sew a regular plain seam and press open.
  2. Fold and press 5 mm of the seam allowance edges under the seam allowances.
  3. Stitch both sides close to the fold.
  4. Press the seam.

You can also sew the pieces wrong sides together and make the hem seam on front side.

Turn-up:

The width of a turnup can vary from under one centimeter to a few centimeters.

  1. Finish the raw edge, fold and press the turnup to wrong side.
  2. Stitch close to the fold.
  3. Press the turnup.

A wider turnup can also be stitched on the outer edge.

Hem:

The width of a hem can vary from a couple of millimeters to some centimeters. The edge of the fabric does not necessarily need to be finished.

  1. Fold and press for example 10 mm of the seam allowance to the wrong side. Fold and press again, for example 20 mm.
  2. Stitch close to the fold.
  3. Press the hem.

Hem